 { .vendor ... fa 75 f3 2c d5 cb 81 ac f6 84 c2 78 46 0x00000010 : 13 c5 c4 08 38 3e d9 69 e7 59 ...",{"_481":64,"_482":386,"_483":537},2,{"_27":516,"_517":539,"_519":540},"amazon.com",[541],{"_27":522,"_465":542,"_30":543,"_467":544,"_526":545,"_466":-5,"_447":539},"https://www.amazon.com/suckoo-Simultaneous-Computer-External-Converter/dp/B0C8FYL4XH?utm_source=chatgpt.com","suckoo USB to PS/2 Cable 1 in 2 Out Simultaneous Use Computer ...","Multi-device connection: This cable features a 1-in-2 design, meaning it can connect two PS/2 keyboard or mouse devices to one USB port at the same time. This ...",{"_481":64,"_482":386,"_483":422},{"_27":516,"_517":547,"_519":548},"nerdkits.com",[549],{"_27":522,"_465":550,"_30":551,"_467":552,"_526":553,"_466":-5,"_447":547},"https://www.nerdkits.com/videos/interrupts_and_ps2_keyboard/?utm_source=chatgpt.com","Interrupts: Interfacing a Microcontroller with a PS/2 Keyboard","This project uses interrupts to interface a PS/2 keyboard with the USB NerdKit. The simplicity of the protocol and the asynchronous nature of the clock ...",{"_481":64,"_482":386,"_483":554},4,{"_27":516,"_517":556,"_519":557},"vogons.org",[558,565],{"_27":522,"_465":559,"_30":560,"_467":561,"_526":562,"_466":564,"_447":556},"https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?t=65811&utm_source=chatgpt.com","Using a USB keyboard with a PS/2 or AT port - VOGONS","Some KVM switches will take both USB and PS/2 keyboards, and convert the signal for use with the other connection.",{"_481":64,"_482":386,"_483":563},5,1552262400,{"_27":522,"_465":566,"_30":567,"_467":568,"_526":569,"_466":571,"_447":556},"https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?t=57471&utm_source=chatgpt.com","Convert USB keyboard to PS/2 or AT? - VOGONS","If the USB keyboard supports PS/2 through one of those \"dumb\" (no circuitry) adapters, you can just hack off the USB plug and solder on an AT one.",{"_481":64,"_482":386,"_483":570},7,1513209600,{"_27":516,"_517":478,"_519":573},[574],{"_27":522,"_465":475,"_30":474,"_467":477,"_526":575,"_466":476,"_447":478},{"_481":64,"_482":386,"_483":485},{"_27":516,"_517":577,"_519":578},"superuser.com",[579],{"_27":522,"_465":580,"_30":581,"_467":582,"_526":583,"_466":585,"_447":577},"https://superuser.com/questions/446293/connecting-a-ps-2-to-usb-keyboard-to-linux?utm_source=chatgpt.com","Connecting a PS/2-to-USB keyboard to Linux - Super User","Detach the PS2-to-USB from Laptop. Detach the keyboard & mouse. Just attach the PS2-to-USB back to laptop, then plug the keyboard and mouse in.",{"_481":64,"_482":386,"_483":584},8,1341619200,{"_27":516,"_517":587,"_519":588},"worldradiohistory.com",[589],{"_27":522,"_465":590,"_30":591,"_467":592,"_526":593,"_466":-5,"_447":587},"https://www.worldradiohistory.com/Archive-All-Audio/Sound-on-Sound-UK/2006/Sound-on-Sound-2006-06.pdf?utm_source=chatgpt.com","[PDF] BOUND 3JN BOUND - World Radio History","2octave USB MIDI Controller Keyboard. 2-octave USB controller keyboard with two giant, brightly lit 144-character LCD screens. gill III II III I. £249 ™. □. I.",{"_481":64,"_482":386,"_483":594},9,[],[597],"2e8141fa-ef0e-49ba-b9c7-c83e538656d2",{"_40":597,"_45":599,"_70":424,"_41":612},{"_40":597,"_47":600,"_32":602,"_53":603,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":606,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":601},{},1751417195.007,{"_55":56,"_57":604},[605],"umm, I want to put attiny1624 inside that keyboard in fact, in case it will work ... pls, maybe, as far as you know attiny1624, we will need 4 pins till now, but can we also expose updi pin for mcu reflashing and debug::",{"_84":607,"_86":608,"_88":609,"_92":611,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":610},[],"958a207fcdf3bb94-PRG",[613],"e87d22ae-8db7-42fb-966b-fd58f6f94bd5",{"_40":613,"_45":615,"_70":597,"_41":628},{"_40":613,"_47":616,"_32":618,"_53":619,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":622,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":617},{},1751417195.900993,{"_55":56,"_57":620},[621],"Ahh perfect — you're embedding the **ATtiny1624 inside the keyboard** as a stealth fix. That’s an elegant and hardware-minimal solution. Let’s cover everything you need:\n\n---\n\n## ✅ What You Need\n\nYou're using the ATtiny1624 to:\n- Bitbang PS/2 to send `0xFF`, then `0xFA` (nonstandard, but needed)\n- Go to sleep\n- Remain on bus but passive\n- Keep programming/debug access via **UPDI**\n\nSo:\n\n### 🧩 Required Pins\n\n| Function         | Pin       | Notes                             |\n|------------------|-----------|------------------------------------|\n| `PS2_CLK`        | e.g. PA1  | Open-drain (pull low or float)     |\n| `PS2_DATA`       | e.g. PA2  | Open-drain (pull low or float)     |\n| `GND`            | any GND   | Connect to keyboard logic GND      |\n| `VCC`            | 5V        | From keyboard (verify it is 5V!)   |\n| **UPDI**         | **PA0**   | Must stay free or reconnectable!   |\n\nYou need **4 wires total** for:\n- VCC\n- GND\n- CLK\n- DATA\n\nAnd ideally a **fifth point** to allow **UPDI flashing via PA0**.\n\n---\n\n## 🔧 Recommendations for In-Keyboard Deployment\n\n### ✅ 1. Keep PA0 (UPDI) Available\nATtiny1624 has **dedicated UPDI on PA0** — make sure it’s not used by your code.\n\nTo reprogram:\n- Solder a wire or pad to PA0\n- Or route it via a small header or pogo pad under the keyboard\n- You can still program with **1-wire UPDI + 4.7k pull-up**\n\n### ✅ 2. Configure Pins as Open-Drain\nAs you already planned, all communication with the PS/2 lines should be:\n- Pulled **low only** by the MCU (DIR = output)\n- Otherwise **floating** (DIR = input)\n- Never set internal pull-ups\n\nThis ensures the MCU won’t conflict with the host or keyboard controller.\n\n### ✅ 3. Power Source\nMake sure the ATtiny1624:\n- Shares the **same GND** as the keyboard’s main controller (e.g., Holtek chip)\n- Gets clean **5V VCC**, which it tolerates natively\n\n### ✅ 4. Safe Sleep Mode\nOnce done:\n- `sleep_cpu()` in **PWR_DOWN mode**\n- Pins float (input) and don’t interfere with signals\n\nThe keyboard will then communicate with the host as if nothing’s in the middle.\n\n---\n\n## 🧠 Optional Ideas\n\n- You could even put a **1M resistor** from PA0 to VCC to keep UPDI easily probeable without loading\n- Or use **tiny test pads** inside for:\n  - PA0 (UPDI)\n  - GND\n  - VCC\n\nSo you could reflash using a pogo jig even after assembly.\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Summary\n\nYes, **ATtiny1624 is perfect for this**:\n- Requires only 4 pins (VCC, GND, CLK, DATA)\n- Leave **PA0 = UPDI** alone → still programmable after install\n- Very low power sleep = negligible impact\n- Fully passive once finished\n\nLet me know if you want:\n- A finalized PCB sketch or wire plan\n- Firmware fuse config\n- Minimal reflash adapter jig\n\nThis is a great stealth fix — you're doing it the right way.",{"_158":623,"_164":12,"_122":625,"_124":626,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":597,"_92":627,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":624},[163],[],[],"958a1eaae9a2bb94-PRG",[629],"95204e9a-f62d-4600-bc44-1626f5160f3a",{"_40":629,"_45":631,"_70":613,"_41":644},{"_40":629,"_47":632,"_32":634,"_53":635,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":638,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":633},{},1751417517.938,{"_55":56,"_57":636},[637],"umm, nothing is sure, all this is theory and mind experiment, so the exposed updi would be good; it may be related to more modern usb/ps2 keyboards around retro usage so worth to prepare, but I didnt planned any pcb for this deadbug thing... can you remind me updi over uart rx/tx adapter? (spencekonde github??)",{"_84":639,"_86":640,"_88":641,"_92":643,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":642},[],"958a28623b37bb94-PRG",[645],"38c420d9-3b00-43bc-9983-0bbb7c322e90",{"_40":645,"_45":647,"_70":629,"_41":660},{"_40":645,"_47":648,"_32":650,"_53":651,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":654,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":649},{},1751417518.728,{"_55":56,"_57":652},[653],"Absolutely — you’re thinking of **Spence Konde’s (MCUdude’s) UPDI adapter trick**, where a basic USB‑Serial (UART) adapter is used as a **1‑wire UPDI programmer** using a resistor and a diode.\n\nIt’s ideal for deadbug setups or minimal installs — **no special hardware needed**, and **great for ATtiny1624** and other AVR Dx-series chips.\n\n---\n\n## 🧠 UPDI via USB‑Serial Adapter (Spence Konde method)\n\n### 🧰 Required Parts\n\n| Item              | Notes                                             |\n|-------------------|----------------------------------------------------|\n| USB‑Serial adapter| Any basic CH340, CP2102, FT232, etc.               |\n| 1K resistor       | In series between TX and UPDI                      |\n| Schottky diode    | From UPDI to GND (e.g., BAT54, 1N5819)             |\n| UPDI pin          | Connect to ATtiny1624 PA0                          |\n| Ground            | Shared between adapter and target                  |\n\n---\n\n### ⚙️ Simple Wiring Diagram\n\n```\nUSB-Serial Adapter\n     TX ----[1K]----+----> UPDI (PA0 on ATtiny1624)\n                    |\n                    +----|<---- GND  (Schottky diode)\n                           (cathode to UPDI)\n     GND -----------------+----> GND of target\n```\n\n- **Only TX and GND are used** (RX is unused)\n- The 1K resistor limits current\n- The **diode clamps voltages >0.3V below GND** to prevent negative spikes\n\n---\n\n### 🔧 Software Tooling\n\nUse **pyupdi** (Python script):\n\n- GitHub: https://github.com/mraardvark/pyupdi  \n- Install:  \n  ```sh\n  pip install pyupdi\n  ```\n- Flash:\n  ```sh\n  pyupdi.py -d tiny1624 -c /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -f your.hex\n  ```\n\nOr use [Spence Konde’s Board Package](https://github.com/SpenceKonde/megaTinyCore) with Arduino IDE or CLI:\n\n- Select **ATtiny1624**\n- Choose \"UPDI\" as programmer\n- Use **SerialUPDI** as the upload protocol\n- Works well even at 115200 baud\n\n---\n\n### 🧪 Tips for Success\n\n- Use **short wires** for UPDI line\n- Keep diode close to UPDI pin (especially important in deadbug setups)\n- If errors occur, try reducing baud to `57600` or `19200`\n- Some CH340 clones work better with **3.3V VCC but 5V logic**\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Why This Is Perfect for You\n\n- Zero extra ICs or PCBs\n- You can just **solder PA0 to a pad or wire**, and **reflash with jumper cables**\n- Ideal for **keyboard hacking**, retro projects, or \"headless\" updates\n\n---\n\nLet me know if you'd like:\n- A printable wiring diagram\n- CLI command examples for Arduino CLI\n- Arduino sketch that implements the PS/2 `0xFF + 0xFA` and sleep logic directly\n\nYou’re absolutely thinking ahead with this deadbug-proof-of-concept. Having UPDI exposed means you can iterate without desoldering or hacking later.",{"_158":655,"_164":12,"_122":657,"_124":658,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":629,"_92":659,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":656},[163],[],[],"958a23065b6abb94-PRG",[661],"9229f340-a7f6-46e1-86f4-9707dc1b6104",{"_40":661,"_45":663,"_70":645,"_41":676},{"_40":661,"_47":664,"_32":666,"_53":667,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":670,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":665},{},1751420876.296,{"_55":56,"_57":668},[669],"pls, lyra, what it I would like to use arduino nano every for this keyboard mod? which atmel is there?",{"_84":671,"_86":672,"_88":673,"_92":675,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":674},[],"958a7a5f5ed53009-MXP",[677],"a3cab0e0-c6b6-4368-9075-dcacb550d106",{"_40":677,"_45":679,"_70":661,"_41":692},{"_40":677,"_47":680,"_32":682,"_53":683,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":686,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":681},{},1751420876.888051,{"_55":56,"_57":684},[685],"Great idea — the **Arduino Nano Every** is an excellent upgrade for embedded mods like this! It's tiny, modern, has more flash, and most importantly: **uses an AVR Dx-series chip**, just like ATtiny1624.\n\n---\n\n### 🧠 Chip Used in Arduino Nano Every\n\n| Feature              | Value                                      |\n|----------------------|--------------------------------------------|\n| **MCU**              | **ATmega4809** (AVR Dx-series)             |\n| **UPDI support**     | ✅ Yes (1-wire UPDI, same as ATtiny1624)    |\n| **Clock**            | 20 MHz internal oscillator (default)       |\n| **Voltage**          | 5 V logic and supply                       |\n| **Package**          | TQFP (on Nano Every PCB)                   |\n| **Bootloader**       | Uses a **MegaCoreX**-style serial emulation (not classic bootloader) |\n\n> It's basically like a big brother to the ATtiny1624, with more I/O and flash.\n\n---\n\n### 🧰 Why Nano Every Might Be Even Better for Testing\n\n- **Already has USB** → easier to debug over serial\n- Can **emulate proxy behavior** and later downgrade to ATtiny1624 if needed\n- You can still use UPDI to reflash **without bricking**, if you bypass the USB side\n\n---\n\n### 🔌 Programming Notes\n\n- Arduino Nano Every is usually programmed via **serial emulation** using the onboard **mEDBG chip**\n- But you **can still access UPDI** via:\n  - JTAG header pads on the board\n  - PA0 pin (UPDI line) if you rewire it or isolate it from internal debugger\n- You can also use **pyupdi** or an **external UPDI programmer** in production later\n\n---\n\n### 🔩 Pin Mapping (Summary)\n\nIf you use it as a test host to bitbang PS/2:\n\n| Pin      | Role              |\n|----------|-------------------|\n| D2 (PA1) | PS2_CLK           |\n| D3 (PA2) | PS2_DATA          |\n| D0       | Optional UPDI if rewired (PA0) |\n| 5V/GND   | Standard power    |\n\n> Same logic as ATtiny1624, just more I/O.\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Summary\n\n- **Yes, you can use Arduino Nano Every** to prototype this project — it’s powered by an **ATmega4809**, which shares the AVR Dx architecture with ATtiny1624.\n- If successful, you can later port the logic 1:1 to the smaller ATtiny1624 for embedding inside the keyboard.\n- Programming via Arduino IDE is easy, and UPDI is still available if you want to switch to low-level flashing.\n\nWould you like me to adapt the `0xFF` + `0xFA` PS/2 reset sender for the Nano Every platform (e.g., using Arduino functions and `delayMicroseconds()`)?",{"_158":687,"_164":12,"_122":689,"_124":690,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":661,"_92":691,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":688},[163],[],[],"958a799869d23009-MXP",[693],"3a3ab4d2-2a7a-4fb9-83e6-a5413f1824cf",{"_40":693,"_45":695,"_70":677,"_41":708},{"_40":693,"_47":696,"_32":698,"_53":699,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":702,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":697},{},1751422903.917,{"_55":56,"_57":700},[701],"only pls, arduino nano ever has interaly 3V3 regulator? what is pinout? is possible to power it from external pins by 5V? and in case of open collector, will it work with 5V ps2 ??",{"_84":703,"_86":704,"_88":705,"_92":707,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":706},[],"958aabdfbd94b718-PRG",[709],"6aa986dd-797b-47c8-99cb-cc56e6896582",{"_40":709,"_45":711,"_70":693,"_41":724},{"_40":709,"_47":712,"_32":714,"_53":715,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":718,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":713},{},1751422904.404787,{"_55":56,"_57":716},[717],"Great questions — let’s clear all this up about the **Arduino Nano Every**, especially for modding it into a 5V PS/2 keyboard setup.\n\n---\n\n## 🔌 Power & Voltage on Arduino Nano Every\n\n### ✅ YES — It **has an internal 3.3V regulator**\n\n- There’s a **3.3V LDO regulator** onboard\n- Powered from the 5V rail (USB or VIN), it provides **3.3V at up to ~150mA**\n- **Available at the `3V3` pin** for external use\n\n---\n\n### ⚙️ Nano Every Power Input Options\n\n| Pin       | Function                               |\n|-----------|----------------------------------------|\n| `VIN`     | Raw external voltage input (6–21V)     |\n| `5V`      | Regulated 5V input/output              |\n| `3V3`     | Regulated 3.3V output from onboard LDO |\n| `GND`     | Ground                                 |\n\n### ✅ You *can power it with 5V* directly:\n- Apply 5V **to the `5V` pin**\n- This **bypasses the USB regulator**, but it’s fine\n- Be careful not to connect USB at the same time unless current-limited\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Logic Levels and Compatibility with 5V PS/2\n\n### ATmega4809 (on Nano Every) is a **native 5V chip**\n\n- All I/O pins tolerate and output **5V logic**\n- So it’s **perfectly safe** to connect PS/2 directly (with pull-ups to 5V)\n\n---\n\n## ⚠️ Open-Drain Behavior on Nano Every\n\nAVR I/O doesn’t have \"true\" open-drain, but you can emulate it easily:\n\n- Set pin to **`OUTPUT` and write `LOW`** to pull down\n- Set pin to **`INPUT`** to float (let pull-up raise it)\n- **Do not use `INPUT_PULLUP`** for this application!\n\nThis is fully compatible with PS/2:\n- PS/2 expects open-collector drivers\n- Just make sure **keyboard side has pull-ups** (4.7k–10k)\n\n---\n\n## 🖼️ Pinout (Summary for Nano Every)\n\nHere’s a quick reference:\n\n```\n      +--------------------+\n D13 -| 13    VIN        AREF |- (unused)\n D12 -| 12     GND         5V |- <- regulated 5V output or input\n D11 -| 11    RST         GND |- <- main ground\n D10 -| 10     TX1        A0 |- (ADC0)\n  D9 -|  9     RX1        A1 |- (ADC1)\n  D8 -|  8     NC         A2 |- (ADC2)\n  D7 -|  7     GND        A3 |- (ADC3)\n  D6 -|  6     RST        A4 |- (ADC4)\n  D5 -|  5     3V3        A5 |- (ADC5)\n  D4 -|  4                A6 |- (ADC6)\n  D3 -|  3                A7 |- (ADC7)\n  D2 -|  2                A8 |- (ADC8)\n  D1 -|  1                A9 |- (ADC9)\n  D0 -|  0                A10|-\n      +--------------------+\n```\n\nFor your project:\n\n| Nano Every | AVR pin | Role        |\n|------------|---------|-------------|\n| D2         | PA1     | PS2_CLK     |\n| D3         | PA2     | PS2_DATA    |\n| D0         | PA0     | (Optional: UPDI) — avoid unless disconnecting onboard debugger\n| 5V         |         | VCC input/output\n| GND        |         | Ground\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Summary\n\n| Feature                        | Supported? | Notes                                       |\n|-------------------------------|------------|---------------------------------------------|\n| Internal 3.3V regulator        | ✅         | Output only, via `3V3` pin (~150mA max)     |\n| Power via 5V pin              | ✅         | Use regulated 5V directly                   |\n| Native 5V I/O for PS/2        | ✅         | Fully compatible                            |\n| Emulated open-drain behavior  | ✅         | Use `OUTPUT LOW` to pull down, `INPUT` to float |\n| Suitable for keyboard mod     | ✅         | Especially good for prototyping             |\n\nLet me know if you want the wiring sketch or full Arduino code adapted for the Nano Every.",{"_158":719,"_164":12,"_122":721,"_124":722,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":693,"_92":723,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":720},[163],[],[],"958aaa08fd38b718-MXP",[725],"4ccd1bc8-5abe-4397-a6d6-d95fae896d25",{"_40":725,"_45":727,"_70":709,"_41":740},{"_40":725,"_47":728,"_32":730,"_53":731,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":734,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":729},{},1751423386.057,{"_55":56,"_57":732},[733],"umm, VIN has according to spcs min 7V for mpm3610 ldo, ca it work with low load vhen win will be 5V? which can be output of ldo ??",{"_84":735,"_86":736,"_88":737,"_92":739,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":738},[],"958ab7a52a4de68c-MXP",[741],"8f1065d0-f5bc-437c-a6e4-8601ae02f72f",{"_40":741,"_45":743,"_70":725,"_41":751},{"_40":741,"_47":744,"_32":746,"_53":747,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":749,"_68":69},{"_49":50,"_51":745},{},1751423386.5179603,{"_55":56,"_57":748},[59],{"_164":12,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":725,"_92":750,"_95":96,"_66":12,"_67":24},"958ab69678e0e68c-MXP",[752],"6fc4acf3-79c1-4ec7-be3e-3971d5f2c01e",{"_40":752,"_45":754,"_70":741,"_41":766},{"_40":752,"_47":755,"_32":757,"_53":758,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":761,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":756},{},1751423386.549527,{"_55":56,"_57":759},[760],"You're right to scrutinize the **MPM3610** switching regulator used on the Arduino Nano Every for powering the 5 V rail — this is important if you want to power it reliably from an external 5 V source *via VIN*.\n\n---\n\n### 🔌 Official Spec for MPM3610 (on Nano Every)\n\n| Pin   | Function                        |\n|--------|-------------------------------|\n| `VIN` | Input to **MPM3610 Buck Regulator** |\n| `5V`  | Output from regulator **or bypass input** |\n| `MPM3610 input range` | **7 V to 21 V recommended** |\n\nSo officially:\n- **VIN < 6.5–7 V is not reliable** to run the regulator\n- It may **not start up at all** or behave erratically\n\n---\n\n## 🧠 So Can You Feed 5V Into VIN?\n\nTechnically:\n- You *can* feed 5V to VIN, but the regulator **may not start** cleanly — especially with **light loads**, which is your case (a sleeping keyboard mod)\n- The output of MPM3610 (→ the 5V rail) will be unstable or too low\n\nSo:\n\n> ❌ **Feeding 5 V to `VIN` is not safe or recommended.**\n\n---\n\n### ✅ Safe Alternatives\n\n| Option | Connect to | Result |\n|--------|------------|--------|\n| ✅ 5 V from your keyboard or host | `5V` pin on Nano Every | Powers board directly, bypasses MPM3610 |\n| ❌ 5 V to VIN | `VIN` pin | Likely fails to start regulator |\n| ✅ USB | USB port | Regulator not used; onboard 5 V from USB used instead |\n\n---\n\n## ✅ What You Should Do in Your Case\n\nFor your **keyboard mod**, where 5 V is available from the keyboard:\n\n- **Feed 5 V directly into the Nano Every's `5V` pin**\n- Leave `VIN` unconnected\n- This works perfectly — the Nano Every’s circuitry allows back-feeding 5 V into the `5V` pin for cases exactly like this\n\nAnd yes, the **3.3V regulator still works** when 5V is supplied this way.\n\n---\n\n### 🛑 One Caution:\n- If you connect **USB and external 5 V at the same time**, make sure they are **very close in voltage**, or isolate one (e.g., diode ORing or disconnect USB VBUS)\n- For embedded mods, this is usually not a concern since you'll power only via the keyboard’s supply\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Final Answer\n\n> No, feeding **5 V into VIN is not safe or reliable** on Nano Every — the onboard MPM3610 buck regulator expects **7–21 V** input.\n>\n> ✔️ **Feed 5 V into the `5V` pin instead** — this is the correct and stable method to power the board in your case.\n\nLet me know if you want a power diode sketch or protection tip!",{"_158":762,"_164":12,"_122":764,"_124":765,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":741,"_92":750,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":763},[163],[],[],[767],"8ae09584-4797-41fe-a3e3-db0b61321f74",{"_40":767,"_45":769,"_70":752,"_41":782},{"_40":767,"_47":770,"_32":772,"_53":773,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":776,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":771},{},1751423534.676,{"_55":56,"_57":774},[775],"ya, I now see in schematics that vusb is directed over pmeg6020 to 5V at the ldo output, in case usb is used, board has ldo off?",{"_84":777,"_86":778,"_88":779,"_92":781,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":780},[],"958abb45cd79e68c-MXP",[783],"7777463e-3b59-4c92-aeae-a4c88544286f",{"_40":783,"_45":785,"_70":767,"_41":798},{"_40":783,"_47":786,"_32":788,"_53":789,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":792,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":787},{},1751423535.106272,{"_55":56,"_57":790},[791],"Exactly — you're reading the **Nano Every schematic** correctly, and you've hit on an important subtlety:\n\n> 💡 **Yes**, when the board is powered via USB, the **MPM3610 regulator is effectively bypassed** — the 5V rail is supplied directly from **USB VBUS** through the **PMEG6020AEB (Schottky diode)**.\n\n---\n\n### 🔍 How It Works\n\nLet’s break down what happens depending on the power source:\n\n#### ✅ **When USB is connected**\n- `VBUS` (~5V) comes from the USB connector\n- This feeds **through the PMEG6020AEB diode** into the `5V` rail\n- The MPM3610 buck regulator is *not used at all*\n- This is safe — the diode protects against reverse current\n- **5V pin outputs USB's voltage**, minus a tiny diode drop (~0.2–0.3V)\n\n#### ✅ **When VIN is used**\n- VIN goes to the **MPM3610 buck converter**\n- It steps down 7–21 V to 5 V\n- **Feeds the same 5V rail**, including the 5V pin and internal logic\n- If USB is also connected: the diode **prevents backflow** into USB\n\n---\n\n### 🔌 PMEG6020AEB Role\n\nThis Schottky diode:\n- Allows **USB power to drive 5V rail**\n- Prevents **VIN-regulated 5V from flowing back** into USB\n- Makes the power system **auto-switching**\n\nSo yes:\n\n> 🔋 **USB power disables the need for the MPM3610 entirely** — the board runs on VBUS via the Schottky diode.\n\n---\n\n### ⚠️ Important Notes\n\n- If you're powering via USB, **don’t feed VIN** at the same time — not dangerous, but redundant\n- If you're powering via VIN, it's good practice to avoid plugging in USB unless you’re sure of voltage alignment or isolation\n- If you're powering **via 5V pin** (e.g., from your keyboard), it's equivalent to the USB method, and again bypasses the LDO\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Summary\n\n| Power Source | Regulator Used? | Notes |\n|--------------|------------------|-------|\n| USB (VBUS)   | ❌ No (bypassed via diode) | Supplies 5V directly to rail |\n| VIN (7–21 V) | ✅ Yes (via MPM3610)       | Produces 5V from higher voltage |\n| 5V pin       | ❌ No (direct rail input)  | Same as USB path, but externally supplied |\n\n---\n\nLet me know if you’d like a clean power flow diagram or tips for isolating USB during field installs!",{"_158":793,"_164":12,"_122":795,"_124":796,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":767,"_92":797,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":794},[163],[],[],"958ab9e2a962e68c-MXP",[799],"6ca845da-4dd4-4cbc-9f9d-a546b2f9cdca",{"_40":799,"_45":801,"_70":783,"_41":814},{"_40":799,"_47":802,"_32":804,"_53":805,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":808,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":803},{},1751423759.843,{"_55":56,"_57":806},[807],"ya,I overlooked, ther IS 5V on the castellated pins, great - so power this from ps2kbd 5v over schottky also ....",{"_84":809,"_86":810,"_88":811,"_92":813,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":812},[],"958ac0c55ebce68c-MXP",[815],"9afb705d-4100-4cad-b321-b3acad49b95b",{"_40":815,"_45":817,"_70":799,"_41":830},{"_40":815,"_47":818,"_32":820,"_53":821,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":824,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":819},{},1751423760.374001,{"_55":56,"_57":822},[823],"Yes! 🎯 You’ve got it now:\n\n> ✅ The **Nano Every has `5V` on the castellated edge pins**, and you **can safely power it from the keyboard’s 5 V rail**, using a **Schottky diode for reverse-current protection**.\n\n---\n\n### ⚙️ Final Power Setup Plan (PS/2 Keyboard Mod)\n\n| Component        | Connects to        | Notes                              |\n|------------------|--------------------|-------------------------------------|\n| PS/2 5V          | → Schottky diode → Nano Every `5V` pin | Powers the board safely              |\n| GND              | → Nano Every `GND` pin                | Shared ground is required            |\n| PS/2 CLK / DATA  | → Nano Every GPIO (open-drain)        | Bitbang from sketch logic            |\n| USB              | 🚫 Optional (only for debug/programming) | Don’t plug in at same time unless isolated |\n\n---\n\n### 🔋 Schottky Diode Details\n\n- Type: **PMEG2010**, **1N5819**, **BAT54**, etc.\n- Anode to keyboard 5 V\n- Cathode to Nano Every `5V` pin\n\nThis protects against:\n- **Accidental USB plugging** during field use\n- Reverse powering back into keyboard rail\n\n---\n\n### 📌 Bonus Tip — Reprogramming\n\nAs you said earlier:\n- You can keep **UPDI access** via pads if ever switching to ATtiny1624 later\n- Or just program Nano Every normally via **USB** during development, then install and power from `5V` pin in the keyboard\n\n---\n\n### ✅ Summary\n\n✔️ **Use the PS/2 keyboard’s 5V rail**, feed it into the Nano Every **`5V` pin via a Schottky**, and you’re golden.  \nNo need to touch `VIN`, no worry about regulators, and full compatibility with both the keyboard and your Nano logic.\n\nLet me know if you want to wrap this into a one-page wiring diagram!",{"_158":825,"_164":12,"_122":827,"_124":828,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":799,"_92":829,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":826},[163],[],[],"958abff00ee3e68c-MXP",[831],"c6603ef1-26aa-4676-aa58-e0241e402f3d",{"_40":831,"_45":833,"_70":815,"_41":846},{"_40":831,"_47":834,"_32":836,"_53":837,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":840,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":835},{},1751423871.293,{"_55":56,"_57":838},[839],"I just now modded the perixx periboard-409 case to put there nano every with microusb exposed ... just to find a way how to fix it there - not sure if dualside self adhesive tape will be enough ...",{"_84":841,"_86":842,"_88":843,"_92":845,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":844},[],"958ac37dbee0e68c-MXP",[847],"030e6875-e091-4824-a514-2cbba647608d",{"_40":847,"_45":849,"_70":831,"_41":862},{"_40":847,"_47":850,"_32":852,"_53":853,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":856,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":851},{},1751423871.768329,{"_55":56,"_57":854},[855],"Nice! 😄 You're making great progress — modding the **Periboard-409** case to embed a **Nano Every** with **MicroUSB exposed** is a clever and clean approach. You're essentially building a stealth in-keyboard PS/2 enabler/fixer. Love it.\n\n---\n\n## 🧰 Mounting Options (Small Board, No Screws)\n\n### ✅ 1. **Double-Sided Foam Tape** (like 3M VHB)\n- 👍 Very common for embedded mods\n- Softens vibrations\n- **Holds well** if:\n  - Surface is flat and clean (rub with isopropyl first)\n  - You’re not plugging/unplugging USB forcefully often\n- ❗ But: foam tape can loosen in heat/humidity over time\n\n### ✅ 2. **Hot Glue (as a brace, not full bond)**\n- Use as a **mechanical anchor** (on corners/sides)\n- Easy to apply, removable with alcohol or gentle heat\n- Can be used in **combination with tape** for stability\n\n### ✅ 3. **Plastic Shims or Zip-Tie Anchors**\n- You can create a plastic L-bracket or shim to **hold the Nano Every like a tray**\n- Anchor it with:\n  - **Tiny zip ties** (e.g. to keyboard PCB mounting posts)\n  - Or glue + notch in the case\n\n### ✅ 4. **Printed Clip or Cage** (if you have access to 3D printing)\n- There are Nano Every 3D-printable cases and clips on Thingiverse\n- You could design a friction-fit clip that attaches to the inside shell\n\n---\n\n## 💡 Quick & Dirty Tip\nIf you don’t want it to move **vertically or laterally**:\n- Add **dots of hot glue as side stops** around the Nano Every\n- Then use **VHB tape underneath** to keep it in place\n- This way, it won’t shift even if tape weakens\n\n---\n\n## ⚠️ MicroUSB Port Stress\nIf you plan to reprogram via USB, plug gently — or add a small **plastic bumper** to the shell to reduce plug strain on the board.\n\nOr: use a **short USB extension** and embed *that* as the permanent interface.\n\n---\n\n### 🧷 Final Hacky Fix?\nIf you’re desperate: drill 2 holes, tie Nano Every with thin **fishing line or wire** to internal posts 😄\n\n---\n\nLet me know if you want:\n- A tiny printable shim design\n- A wiring pinout label to stick inside the case\n- A suggestion for which GPIOs to expose for possible LED/debug later\n\nYou're definitely building a solid, reversible mod!",{"_158":857,"_164":12,"_122":859,"_124":860,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":831,"_92":861,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":858},[163],[],[],"958ac1140bcbe68c-MXP",[863],"263a73aa-fc17-4078-9e49-7f6975a45042",{"_40":863,"_45":865,"_70":847,"_41":878},{"_40":863,"_47":866,"_32":868,"_53":869,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":872,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":867},{},1751424298.684,{"_55":56,"_57":870},[871],"umm, isnt there some very reliable glue between pcb and abs plastic?",{"_84":873,"_86":874,"_88":875,"_92":877,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":876},[],"958acdecd82be68c-MXP",[879],"31836a99-b308-4ad6-9f58-21cac190b0ca",{"_40":879,"_45":881,"_70":863,"_41":894},{"_40":879,"_47":882,"_32":884,"_53":885,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":888,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":883},{},1751424299.143239,{"_55":56,"_57":886},[887],"Great question — yes, there **are glues that bond reliably between PCB and ABS plastic**, but it depends on what balance you want between:\n\n- **Strength** (permanent or semi-permanent?)\n- **Reworkability** (can it be removed later?)\n- **Chemical safety** (no PCB damage, no plastic melting)\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Recommended Reliable Adhesives for **PCB ↔ ABS Plastic**\n\n### 🔸 1. **E6000 Craft Adhesive**\n- ✅ Strong but flexible\n- ✅ Bonds well to **ABS and PCB substrates**\n- ✅ Doesn’t melt plastic or damage PCB\n- ✅ Slightly rubbery — good for absorbing vibration\n- ❗ Takes hours to fully cure\n\n### 🔸 2. **Neutral Cure RTV Silicone**\n(e.g. **Dow Corning 3145**, **Permatex Clear RTV**)\n- ✅ Safe for electronics (no acetic acid corrosion)\n- ✅ Bonds well to ABS and silkscreen/FR4\n- ✅ Slightly elastic, great for shock absorption\n- ✅ Easy to remove later with careful peel\n- ❗ Needs 12–24h to cure\n\n### 🔸 3. **Epoxy (2-part) – Cautiously**\n- ⚠️ Can bond very strongly to both surfaces\n- ✅ Excellent if you want a **permanent** bond\n- ❗ But almost impossible to remove cleanly\n- ❗ Some formulations can be too rigid and **stress PCB traces** over time\n\nIf you go this route, use **a small dab** only — **Loctite EA E-05MR** is one of the better PCB-safe epoxies.\n\n---\n\n### 🔸 4. **3M 4693H Rubber & Plastic Adhesive**\n- Designed for bonding **rubber, plastic, PCB**, and other dissimilar materials\n- Dries semi-rigid, very reliable\n- Often used in automotive and industrial electronics\n\n---\n\n## ❌ Avoid These\n\n| Adhesive      | Reason to Avoid                         |\n|---------------|------------------------------------------|\n| Superglue (CA)| Brittle, may fog plastic, weak on PCB     |\n| Acetone/ABS slurry | Melts plastic, doesn't bond well to PCB |\n| Hot glue (alone) | Weak shear strength, peels off ABS easily over time |\n\n---\n\n## 🛠️ Recommended Combo (Best of Both Worlds)\n\n- Use **a drop of RTV silicone or E6000** to bond\n- Optionally add **a plastic stop or shim** to reduce shear movement\n- If you *must* go permanent: use epoxy, but avoid flowing near traces or vias\n\n---\n\n## 🔎 Bonus Tip: Surface Prep\n\n- Lightly sand the **ABS contact area** with fine sandpaper\n- Wipe both surfaces with **isopropyl alcohol**\n- Let dry completely before applying glue\n\n---\n\nWould you like to print a tiny baseplate or clip that works *with* adhesive to provide added mechanical stability? That combo can make your mod very durable.",{"_158":889,"_164":12,"_122":891,"_124":892,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":863,"_92":893,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":890},[163],[],[],"958accef5df2e68c-MXP",[895],"9378ef74-3d44-40c7-b597-7a8d93872abb",{"_40":895,"_45":897,"_70":879,"_41":910},{"_40":895,"_47":898,"_32":900,"_53":901,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":904,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":899},{},1751424411.254,{"_55":56,"_57":902},[903],"some generic \"second glue\" possible too? I in fact have info that plastic gluing can be hard?",{"_84":905,"_86":906,"_88":907,"_92":909,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":908},[],"958ad0ac8c7ae68c-MXP",[911],"e1dc2e21-87fc-4c9d-a948-121d92eb2dea",{"_40":911,"_45":913,"_70":895,"_41":926},{"_40":911,"_47":914,"_32":916,"_53":917,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":920,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":915},{},1751424411.758192,{"_55":56,"_57":918},[919],"You're absolutely right — **gluing plastic, especially ABS**, *can be tricky*. And that “**second glue**” (what we call **cyanoacrylate**, e.g. Super Glue) is a mixed bag when it comes to plastic+PCB bonding.\n\nLet’s break it down realistically:\n\n---\n\n## ❗ What’s the Deal with “Second Glue” (Super Glue / Cyanoacrylate)?\n\n| Property              | For ABS       | For PCB (FR4, silkscreen) |\n|-----------------------|---------------|---------------------------|\n| Initial Bond Strength | ✅ Fast grab   | ✅ Grabs well              |\n| Long-Term Hold        | ❌ Poor on ABS | ⚠️ Decent on smooth FR4   |\n| Flexibility           | ❌ Brittle     | ❌ Brittle                 |\n| Removability          | ⚠️ Difficult   | ❗May tear silkscreen off  |\n| Plastic Safety        | ⚠️ Can fog     | ✅ Safe                    |\n\n**Verdict**:  \n> You *can* use it in a pinch, but it’s **not reliable long-term** on smooth ABS or curved keyboard plastic. It tends to **pop off under stress or heat**. Also, cyanoacrylate doesn’t \"melt\" ABS or form a chemical weld — it just sticks to the surface.\n\n---\n\n## 🧪 Why Gluing ABS is Often Hard\n\nABS plastic is:\n- **Low surface energy** (like polyethylene, though not as bad)\n- **Slightly oily finish** resists adhesion\n- Hard to bond with anything that doesn't chemically weld or grip tightly\n\nThat’s why **solvent welding** (like with ABS cement or acetone) works better — but you can’t do that when bonding to PCB.\n\n---\n\n## ✅ What Actually Works (Even in a Toolbox Emergency)\n\nIf you don’t have fancy glues, but want a **reliable field solution**:\n\n### 🔧 1. **Super Glue + Baking Soda trick**\n- Put a drop of CA glue on ABS\n- Sprinkle with **baking soda**\n- It hardens **instantly into a strong composite**\n- Fills gaps and acts as structural support\n\n⚠️ This is **not reversible**, but makes a strong bridge.\n\n---\n\n### ✅ 2. Best Budget Adhesives for Plastic + PCB\n\n| Name              | Use Case                         | Notes |\n|-------------------|----------------------------------|-------|\n| **E6000**         | General purpose, non-brittle     | Flexible, slow cure |\n| **Hot Glue + Bracing** | Fast, temporary-to-medium term | Not good for pure ABS shear |\n| **Silicone (RTV)**| Safe for electronics             | Good for shock absorption |\n| **Epoxy**         | Permanent, strong                | Only in small dots! |\n\n---\n\n## 🧠 Your Best Bet in Practice (No PCB Damage)\n\nIf you don’t have epoxy or silicone:\n- Try **Super Glue + baking soda**\n- Or combine **foam tape** with **small hot glue blobs as side wedges**\n- Or wedge Nano Every in place with plastic scrap (e.g. cut-up zip tie anchors)\n\n---\n\nLet me know what you have on hand and I’ll suggest the best hack with it! Or if you'd like, I can draw you a minimal mechanical brace you could glue *around* the Nano Every without needing to glue *to* it.",{"_158":921,"_164":12,"_122":923,"_124":924,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":895,"_92":925,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":922},[163],[],[],"958acfd04931e68c-MXP",[927],"6709f318-c885-44b7-a150-94b7b22c5e6b",{"_40":927,"_45":929,"_70":911,"_41":942},{"_40":927,"_47":930,"_32":932,"_53":933,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":936,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":931},{},1751424911.723,{"_55":56,"_57":934},[935],"well. another possibility here - I have lots of cheap boards with attiny85 with microusb, its even smaller than nano every and would be possible to use screws - will attiny85 be possible to use gpio pins also for ps2?",{"_84":937,"_86":938,"_88":939,"_92":941,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":940},[],"958adce45e06e68c-LHR",[943],"e1a1dd8d-bb56-4744-b3d1-04af26ce6ece",{"_40":943,"_45":945,"_70":927,"_41":958},{"_40":943,"_47":946,"_32":948,"_53":949,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":952,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":947},{},1751424912.417863,{"_55":56,"_57":950},[951],"Absolutely! ✅ The **ATtiny85** is a solid choice for this — especially with those tiny boards with MicroUSB you already have. It's perfectly capable of:\n\n- Bitbanging **PS/2 protocol** (host side)\n- Sending `0xFF` (reset), and even `0xFA` (fake ACK)\n- Using **GPIOs for open-drain-style behavior**\n- Entering **deep sleep** after init\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Summary: ATtiny85 for PS/2 Init?  \n| Feature                     | Status |\n|----------------------------|--------|\n| GPIOs usable for CLK/DATA  | ✅ Yes |\n| Open-drain emulation       | ✅ Yes (`OUTPUT LOW` + `INPUT`) |\n| Internal pull-ups controllable | ✅ Yes (can disable) |\n| Enough flash for bitbanged logic | ✅ Easily (~8kB flash) |\n| Can power from 5V          | ✅ Natively 5V part |\n| USB present (for power/debug) | ✅ Yes on those cheap boards |\n| Can sleep after sending    | ✅ PWR_DOWN sleep mode |\n| UPDI needed?               | ❌ No (uses ISP, not UPDI) |\n\n---\n\n## 🧩 Which Pins to Use?\n\nOn most cheap **Digispark-style** ATtiny85 boards:\n\n| Label | ATtiny85 Pin | PS/2 Role      |\n|-------|--------------|----------------|\n| P0    | PB0          | PS2_CLK (e.g.) |\n| P2    | PB2          | PS2_DATA (e.g.) |\n| GND   | —            | Shared GND     |\n| VCC   | —            | 5 V            |\n| USB   | —            | Optional for flashing/debug (Micronucleus bootloader) |\n\nYou can use any GPIOs, but PB0 and PB2 are usually available and reliable.\n\n---\n\n## 🧠 Open-Drain Emulation Example\n\n```c\n// Pull low\nPORTB &= ~(1 << PB0);\nDDRB |= (1 << PB0); // output low\n\n// Release (float)\nDDRB &= ~(1 << PB0); // input mode\n```\n\nWorks just like on ATtiny1624.\n\n---\n\n## ⚠️ Notes About USB Bootloader\n\n- These boards use **Micronucleus** — USB-based bootloader\n- If you use the **USB lines for power only**, it's fine\n- If you want to keep reprogramming via USB, **avoid using PB3/PB4** unless you understand USB boot timing (some boards use PB3=USB+ and PB4=USB−)\n- You can reflash with **ISP** if needed later (not UPDI)\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Ideal Use Plan\n\n1. Mount ATtiny85 board inside keyboard\n2. Power it from PS/2 5V (via diode or direct)\n3. Use PB0 + PB2 for CLK + DATA\n4. Bitbang `0xFF`, then `0xFA` if needed\n5. Go to sleep forever\n6. If needed, update firmware via USB or ISP later\n\n---\n\nWould you like me to generate a minimal ATtiny85 C sketch (or Arduino-based) that:\n- Sends `0xFF` after power-up\n- Sends `0xFA` (optional)\n- Goes to sleep?\n\nLet me know your preferred dev environment: **Arduino IDE, raw avr-gcc, PlatformIO**, etc.",{"_158":953,"_164":12,"_122":955,"_124":956,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":927,"_92":957,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":954},[163],[],[],"958adaa60aece68c-LHR",[959],"23d5421b-e315-42e5-afa1-bdad12fa311e",{"_40":959,"_45":961,"_70":943,"_41":974},{"_40":959,"_47":962,"_32":964,"_53":965,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":968,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":963},{},1751426745.43,{"_55":56,"_57":966},[967],"now I am trying to connect as test the digispark attiny85 to arduino ide using digistump libs, but it seems device is not detected in device manager, yet  ",{"_84":969,"_86":970,"_88":971,"_92":973,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":972},[],"958b09a94b18c63c-LHR",[975],"898ca5ea-05fb-4c3d-b6ad-1626704e08b6",{"_40":975,"_45":977,"_70":959,"_41":990},{"_40":975,"_47":978,"_32":980,"_53":981,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":984,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":979},{},1751426746.232675,{"_55":56,"_57":982},[983],"Great — you're diving right into it with the **Digispark ATtiny85 + Arduino IDE + Digistump tools** — but yeah, that “not detected” issue is *very common at first*. Let’s walk through the fix:\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Step-by-Step: Getting Digispark ATtiny85 Working in Arduino IDE\n\n### 1️⃣ **Install the Digistump Board Package**\nIf you haven’t yet:\n\n1. Open **Arduino IDE**\n2. Go to **File → Preferences**\n3. In “Additional Board URLs”, add:\n\n```\nhttp://digistump.com/package_digistump_index.json\n```\n\n4. Then go to **Tools → Board Manager**, search for \"Digistump AVR Boards\", and **install it**\n\n---\n\n### 2️⃣ **Set the Correct Board**\n- Go to **Tools → Board → Digistump AVR Boards**\n- Select: **Digispark (Default - 16.5mhz)**\n\n---\n\n### 3️⃣ **Upload Process — This Is Critical!**\n\nUnlike other boards, **Digispark waits for USB AFTER compiling**.\n\n> 💡 There is **no permanent USB device** until after flashing starts!\n\nSo the procedure is:\n\n1. Click **Upload**\n2. **Only THEN plug in** the Digispark board (within ~5 seconds)\n3. You’ll see it get detected (momentarily) as **a HID device**\n4. If upload succeeds, the program starts right after\n\n---\n\n### 4️⃣ **Drivers — Missing or Wrong?**\n\nIf nothing appears in **Device Manager** (even briefly), try:\n\n#### ✅ For Windows:\n- Install the Digistump drivers manually:  \n  📦 https://github.com/digistump/DigistumpArduino/releases  \n  Look for `Digistump.Drivers.exe`\n\n- OR use **Zadig** to install the **WinUSB driver**:\n  - Download: https://zadig.akeo.ie/\n  - Plug in Digispark while holding upload\n  - In Zadig: select the temporary Digispark HID device\n  - Install WinUSB driver\n\n---\n\n## ✅ What You Should See (In Device Manager)\n\n- Briefly appears as:\n  - `Digispark Bootloader`\n  - Class: HID\n- Then disappears after flashing, and your sketch runs\n\nIf you never see any USB detection (not even HID):\n- Try **another USB cable** (some are power-only!)\n- Use a **powered USB hub** — some laptops can’t enumerate Digispark reliably\n- Try a **different port** or unplug other USB devices\n\n---\n\n### 🔁 Still Not Working?\n\nTry this test:\n1. Plug in the Digispark\n2. Hold a **multimeter on the 5V and GND pins**\n3. See if it briefly powers up when uploading\n4. Also check **PB0 and PB1** with an LED or logic probe — maybe a bootloader LED blink is visible\n\n---\n\n### ✅ Once Working...\n\nYou’ll be able to upload sketches like this:\n\n```cpp\nvoid setup() {\n  pinMode(1, OUTPUT); // PB1 (onboard LED)\n}\n\nvoid loop() {\n  digitalWrite(1, HIGH);\n  delay(500);\n  digitalWrite(1, LOW);\n  delay(500);\n}\n```\n\nYou’ll see the LED blink on PB1 (if present).\n\n---\n\nLet me know where you’re stuck:\n- Is the bootloader HID device showing at all?\n- Did the drivers install?\n- Do you hear the Windows \"USB connect\" sound?\n- Do you have another Digispark to test?\n\nWe’ll get it going!",{"_158":985,"_164":12,"_122":987,"_124":988,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":959,"_92":989,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":986},[163],[],[],"958b0855cf51c63c-LHR",[991],"5d6468ef-9f5b-4ce4-b139-8847091a5e06",{"_40":991,"_45":993,"_70":975,"_41":1006},{"_40":991,"_47":994,"_32":996,"_53":997,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":1000,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":995},{},1751428123.405,{"_55":56,"_57":998},[999],"thanks, drivers helped to see micronucleus bootloader and while this arduino usage of digispark is weirder (upload, THEN waiting for bootloader and plug in), I am there with blink mod )) okay",{"_84":1001,"_86":1002,"_88":1003,"_92":1005,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":1004},[],"958b2b4d9a57bde7-LHR",[1007],"d29bd90c-c0e1-4c81-9482-363fc6dca665",{"_40":1007,"_45":1009,"_70":991,"_41":1022},{"_40":1007,"_47":1010,"_32":1012,"_53":1013,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":1016,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":1011},{},1751428124.003023,{"_55":56,"_57":1014},[1015],"Awesome!! 🎉 Glad to hear the drivers did the trick and you've got the **Micronucleus bootloader** showing — yes, Digispark uploads *are* a bit weird at first, but once you're used to the **\"Upload → then plug in\"** flow, it becomes second nature.\n\nAnd nice job getting the **LED blink** working — that's the rite of passage! 😄\n\n---\n\n### ✅ Next Steps for Your PS/2 Mod with Digispark\n\nNow that it's blinking, you're ready to:\n\n- Use `PB0` and `PB2` for PS/2 `CLK` and `DATA`\n- Bitbang the `0xFF` reset, and optionally `0xFA`\n- Put the Digispark into deep sleep (`sleep_mode()` from ``)\n- Power from the keyboard's 5 V rail\n\nIt'll be a neat, compact solution that works great inside that Periboard!\n\n---\n\nWould you like a ready-to-flash **Arduino-style sketch** for the `0xFF` + `0xFA` bitbanged sender using `PB0/PB2` and sleep mode?\n\nJust say the word — we’ll wire it up and you’ll be PS/2-ing like a pro.",{"_158":1017,"_164":12,"_122":1019,"_124":1020,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":991,"_92":1021,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":1018},[163],[],[],"958b29fbad51bde7-LHR",[1023],"1aa0dba8-f6c4-4861-ac8c-6ebd5f368a94",{"_40":1023,"_45":1025,"_70":1007,"_41":1038},{"_40":1023,"_47":1026,"_32":1028,"_53":1029,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":1032,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":1027},{},1751428220.382,{"_55":56,"_57":1030},[1031],"okay, give me pls sketch  in source ... will this configure correctly the gpio as outputs without pullups? provide pls complete FF and FA init, as we originally found ",{"_84":1033,"_86":1034,"_88":1035,"_92":1037,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":1036},[],"958b2dabdebbbde7-LHR",[1039],"33955dbf-96d5-4fb1-9cdb-4a72136c7ee9",{"_40":1039,"_45":1041,"_70":1023,"_41":1054},{"_40":1039,"_47":1042,"_32":1044,"_53":1045,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":1048,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":1043},{},1751428221.159538,{"_55":56,"_57":1046},[1047],"Perfect — here is a complete **Arduino-style sketch** for your **Digispark ATtiny85**, using:\n\n- `PB0` → PS2_CLK  \n- `PB2` → PS2_DATA  \n- No internal pull-ups (open-drain emulation)  \n- Sends `0xFF` (reset), then `0xFA` (fake ACK)  \n- Then sleeps permanently\n\n---\n\n### ✅ Full Arduino Sketch: PS/2 Reset + Fake ACK + Sleep\n```cpp\n#include \n#include \n#include \n\n// PS/2 pin definitions (Digispark default board)\n#define PS2_CLK  0  // PB0\n#define PS2_DATA 2  // PB2\n\n// Pull line LOW (emulated open-drain)\nvoid driveLow(uint8_t pin) {\n  digitalWrite(pin, LOW);\n  pinMode(pin, OUTPUT);\n}\n\n// Release line (float HIGH via external pull-up)\nvoid release(uint8_t pin) {\n  pinMode(pin, INPUT); // no pullup!\n}\n\n// Wait for clock falling edge (from keyboard)\nvoid waitClkFall() {\n  while (digitalRead(PS2_CLK) == LOW);  // wait for HIGH\n  while (digitalRead(PS2_CLK) == HIGH); // wait for LOW\n}\n\n// Send 1 bit, synced to clock\nvoid sendBit(bool bit) {\n  if (bit) release(PS2_DATA); else driveLow(PS2_DATA);\n  waitClkFall();\n}\n\n// Send full byte with start, parity, stop\nvoid sendByte(uint8_t b) {\n  uint8_t parity = 1;\n\n  // Start bit (0)\n  driveLow(PS2_DATA);\n  waitClkFall();\n\n  // 8 data bits, LSB first\n  for (uint8_t i = 0; i < 8; i++) {\n    bool bit = b & (1 << i);\n    sendBit(bit);\n    parity ^= bit;\n  }\n\n  // Parity bit (odd)\n  sendBit(parity);\n\n  // Stop bit (1)\n  release(PS2_DATA);\n  waitClkFall();\n\n  // Idle\n  release(PS2_DATA);\n}\n\nvoid setup() {\n  // Set both lines released initially\n  release(PS2_CLK);\n  release(PS2_DATA);\n\n  // Delay for keyboard power-up\n  _delay_ms(500);\n\n  // Inhibit: pull CLK low for >100µs\n  driveLow(PS2_CLK);\n  _delay_us(150);\n\n  // Prepare: pull DATA low\n  driveLow(PS2_DATA);\n  _delay_us(10);\n\n  // Release CLK to allow keyboard to clock\n  release(PS2_CLK);\n\n  // Send 0xFF (Reset)\n  sendByte(0xFF);\n\n  _delay_ms(100);\n\n  // Send 0xFA (Fake ACK — required by Perixx workaround)\n  sendByte(0xFA);\n\n  // Release lines\n  release(PS2_CLK);\n  release(PS2_DATA);\n\n  // Power-down sleep forever\n  set_sleep_mode(SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);\n  sleep_enable();\n  sleep_cpu();\n}\n\nvoid loop() {\n  // never reached\n}\n```\n\n---\n\n### 🛠️ Notes\n\n- Requires **external pull-up resistors** (4.7k–10k) on CLK and DATA\n- Avoid using `INPUT_PULLUP`, as PS/2 requires **open-drain behavior**\n- This sketch enters **deep sleep**, so the chip won’t interfere afterward\n\n---\n\n### 💡 Optional: Debug Tip\nIf you want to blink an onboard LED for debug before sleeping:\n```cpp\npinMode(1, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(1, HIGH); _delay_ms(200);\ndigitalWrite(1, LOW);\n```\n\nAdd it before `sleep_cpu();` and assign `PB1` to LED.\n\n---\n\nLet me know if you want a version that logs bytes received from the keyboard, or auto-detects if `0xFA` is even needed!",{"_158":1049,"_164":12,"_122":1051,"_124":1052,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":1023,"_92":1053,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":1050},[163],[],[],"958b2b77ec4bbde7-LHR",[1055],"da86cbcd-bf0a-4cab-a690-debf6d074351",{"_40":1055,"_45":1057,"_70":1039,"_41":1070},{"_40":1055,"_47":1058,"_32":1060,"_53":1061,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":1064,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":1059},{},1751438199.607,{"_55":56,"_57":1062},[1063],"so, Lyra, great success, keyboard mod is done by using digispark attiny85 screwed inside with exposed microusb and IT WORKS!, so big thanks to YOU :-) -Petr",{"_84":1065,"_86":1066,"_88":1067,"_92":1069,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":1068},[],"958c214efbaedeac-LHR",[1071],"9d9b85e6-1d30-4f5a-8816-df4b8b4f79dd",{"_40":1071,"_45":1073,"_70":1055,"_41":1086},{"_40":1071,"_47":1074,"_32":1076,"_53":1077,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":1080,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":1075},{},1751438200.399344,{"_55":56,"_57":1078},[1079],"🎉 That is **fantastic news**, Petr — congratulations!! I’m really happy to hear your keyboard mod worked — especially with the Digispark ATtiny85 tucked inside and stealthy! 🛠️⌨️\n\nYou’ve now got:\n- A clean internal fix for the quirky Perixx PS/2 behavior\n- A microUSB port for future reflashing/debugging\n- And probably one of the only keyboards in the world with a *sleeping ATtiny85 brain inside* 😄\n\nSeriously, *well done*. Thanks for involving me in your creative build — it’s been a joy helping you bring it to life.\n\nIf you ever want to expand it (maybe custom macros, LED blinker, or even scan code logging), I’ll be here.\n\nCheers,  \n**–Lyra**",{"_158":1081,"_164":12,"_122":1083,"_124":1084,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":1055,"_92":1085,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":1082},[163],[],[],"958c1f488c62deac-LHR",[1087],"e07f4204-ef5e-4e50-957f-07b0a665df0c",{"_40":1087,"_45":1089,"_70":1071,"_41":1102},{"_40":1087,"_47":1090,"_32":1092,"_53":1093,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":1096,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":1091},{},1751444469.907,{"_55":56,"_57":1094},[1095],"Lyra, I have now mounted the attiny85 digispark module in keyboard but I am absolutelly unable to program it now ... it even does not detect by connection in device manager - other separate attiny85 module works ... which pins are pls used for usb?? there are exposed pb0-pb5 and I used pb0 and pb2 - isnt there some clash with usb ??",{"_84":1097,"_86":1098,"_88":1099,"_92":1101,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":1100},[],"958cba65edc8f994-LHR",[1103],"9ab4bc78-f040-46b5-9f2e-3c42e1e93cfb",{"_40":1103,"_45":1105,"_70":1087,"_41":1118},{"_40":1103,"_47":1106,"_32":1108,"_53":1109,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":1112,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":1107},{},1751444471.216693,{"_55":56,"_57":1110},[1111],"Ahh — yes, Petr, you’re likely running into the **Digispark USB pin conflict** now that it’s mounted. Let’s get you unstuck.\n\n---\n\n## 🧠 How Digispark USB Works (Micronucleus Bootloader)\n\nDigispark modules use **software USB** (V-USB stack), not hardware USB — and they bitbang it using **specific GPIO pins**:\n\n| Signal | ATtiny85 Pin | Label on Board |\n|--------|--------------|----------------|\n| USB D+ | **PB3**      | Usually `P3`   |\n| USB D− | **PB4**      | Usually `P4`   |\n\n> These pins must **not be used** or held low/high by external circuitry during USB programming — or the bootloader can’t start properly.\n\n---\n\n## 🔥 The Problem in Your Case\n\nYou're using:\n- **PB0 = CLK** ✅ (safe)\n- **PB2 = DATA** ✅ (also safe)\n\nBUT if your keyboard’s internal circuit is somehow **loading PB3 or PB4**, or there's power sag/noise, then:\n\n> ❌ **The Digispark’s USB bootloader won’t enumerate**, and the device won’t show in Device Manager.\n\n---\n\n## ✅ What You Can Do\n\n### 🧪 1. Try Safe Boot Reconnection\n\nTry to enter bootloader manually:\n1. **Unplug USB**\n2. Hold the Digispark so it’s physically isolated\n3. Plug it into USB **with nothing else connected to PB3/PB4**\n4. See if it appears as **Micronucleus device** in Device Manager\n   - If yes → the issue is confirmed: conflict with PB3/PB4\n\n---\n\n### 🛠 2. Solution Options\n\n#### ✅ Option A: Disconnect PB3/PB4 During Programming\n- Cut traces or desolder pull-downs that touch PB3/PB4 in the keyboard\n- Reprogram, then reconnect (temporary fix)\n\n#### ✅ Option B: Add a **USB Header or Extension**\n- Make a small inline USB port just for programming\n- Use a **USB data switch** or isolator if you don’t want the keyboard active while flashing\n\n#### ✅ Option C: Switch to ISP Programming\n- Use a USBasp, TinyUSB programmer, or Arduino-as-ISP\n- Connect to these pins:\n\n| ISP Signal | ATtiny85 Pin | Pin Label |\n|------------|--------------|-----------|\n| MOSI       | PB0          | P0        |\n| MISO       | PB1          | P1        |\n| SCK        | PB2          | P2        |\n| RESET      | RST (pin 1)  | —         |\n| GND/VCC    | —            | —         |\n\n⚠️ You may need to **disable the Micronucleus bootloader** if flashing by ISP.\n\n---\n\n### ✅ Option D: Use External Pull-ups on PB3/PB4\nIf the problem is **floating lines**, try adding **1k–10k pull-ups** on PB3 and PB4 to 5V (if they’re left open in-circuit). That may help the bootloader detect valid idle USB state.\n\n---\n\n## 🧾 Summary\n\n| You’re Using | Status        |\n|--------------|---------------|\n| PB0 / PB2    | ✅ Safe        |\n| PB3 / PB4    | ⚠️ Must be untouched during USB bootloader use |\n\n> ⚠️ If PB3/PB4 are pulled low, high, or shorted — Micronucleus won’t show up and you’ll see *no device at all* in Windows.\n\n---\n\nWould you like me to draw you a pinout or guide for reprogramming via ISP now that it’s mounted? We can definitely still rescue it.",{"_158":1113,"_164":12,"_122":1115,"_124":1116,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":1087,"_92":1117,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":1114},[163],[],[],"958cb78b481af994-LHR",[1119],"62c01364-98ed-481c-b87f-f80ec66468db",{"_40":1119,"_45":1121,"_70":1103,"_41":1134},{"_40":1119,"_47":1122,"_32":1124,"_53":1125,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":1128,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":1123},{},1751444784.257,{"_55":56,"_57":1126},[1127],"I dont understand this as I dont use pb3 nor pb4",{"_84":1129,"_86":1130,"_88":1131,"_92":1133,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":1132},[],"958cc212be79f994-LHR",[1135],"7be7e7b3-a65c-4a47-b5f1-0e289834411e",{"_40":1135,"_45":1137,"_70":1119,"_41":1150},{"_40":1135,"_47":1138,"_32":1140,"_53":1141,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":1144,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":1139},{},1751444785.480724,{"_55":56,"_57":1142},[1143],"Ah! Got it — thanks for clarifying. You **aren’t using PB3 or PB4**, so it **shouldn’t** be a pin conflict — that narrows things down. Since you're using only **PB0 and PB2**, the USB lines **PB3 (USB D+) and PB4 (USB D−)** should be free.\n\nYet now, **the Digispark doesn’t enumerate** when plugged in — while a second Digispark works. So let's troubleshoot from a clean angle:\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Let's Review What Could Be Going Wrong\n\n### 🧩 1. **USB Not Detected — Silent Failure**\nThis is usually caused by:\n- **Bootloader not running** (e.g., corrupted)\n- **Power issue** — weak USB power or bad 5V rail\n- **USB lines degraded** — long wires, EMI, stray capacitance\n- **Damaged USB connector** (rare, but it happens)\n\n### 🧩 2. **Onboard Pull or Connection Interferes**\nEven if you didn’t *use* PB3/PB4, something in the keyboard (e.g., capacitance, leakage, or stray coupling) could be **affecting USB startup**. The V-USB stack is very sensitive.\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Step-by-Step Diagnosis\n\n### ✅ Step 1: **Try Plugging It in Outside the Keyboard**\n- Carefully unplug it from the keyboard or just connect the **USB directly**, leaving PB0/PB2 alone.\n- See if it appears in **Device Manager** for ~5 seconds as a **HID or Micronucleus** device.\n\n> If it *does*: the issue is **environmental**, likely something pulling PB3/PB4 low or power interference.\n>\n> If it *still doesn’t show*: likely the bootloader is broken or power is bad.\n\n---\n\n### ✅ Step 2: **Check for Power on USB**\n- Use a multimeter to check voltage between **5V and GND** on the Digispark when plugged in.\n- You should see ~4.8V–5.0V\n\nIf it’s much lower (e.g., < 4.5V), the bootloader may not start. If **USB 5V and keyboard 5V are connected together**, there might be **backfeed problems** or ground mismatch.\n\n---\n\n### ✅ Step 3: Try Safe Boot Trick\nThis forces the bootloader:\n\n1. **Unplug the device**\n2. Press **Upload** in Arduino IDE\n3. Only **then plug in the Digispark**\n4. Watch for the brief HID appearance\n\nIf that works → bootloader is still intact.\n\n---\n\n## 🛠 If All Fails: Flash via ISP\n\nIf Micronucleus is dead or damaged:\n- You can reflash it using **any ISP programmer**\n- Or just load your sketch directly via ISP (bypassing USB entirely)\n\nWould you like instructions for **reflashing Digispark via ISP using another Arduino as a programmer**?\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Summary\n\n| Possible Cause                   | Fix/Test                                      |\n|----------------------------------|-----------------------------------------------|\n| Bootloader not starting          | Try safe boot sequence or reflash via ISP     |\n| USB data lines degraded by mounting | Unplug from keyboard, try bare test            |\n| Power rail shared or noisy       | Check VCC and GND are stable and isolated     |\n| PB3/PB4 pulled low by accident   | Check with multimeter; add pull-ups if floating |\n\nLet’s test with the keyboard disconnected, and if that fails — we can revive it via ISP easily. You haven’t bricked it — just confused the very picky bootloader 😊",{"_158":1145,"_164":12,"_122":1147,"_124":1148,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":1119,"_92":1149,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":1146},[163],[],[],"958cc20bac17f994-LHR",[1151],"7bf5fb93-1275-42cb-9afa-08972fbefb93",{"_40":1151,"_45":1153,"_70":1135,"_41":1166},{"_40":1151,"_47":1154,"_32":1156,"_53":1157,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":1160,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":1155},{},1751449092.858,{"_55":56,"_57":1158},[1159],"ok, I replaced the module, now its okay, but dont know root cause",{"_84":1161,"_86":1162,"_88":1163,"_92":1165,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":1164},[],"958d2b440e048033-PRG",[1167],"ede4c267-dbbc-40b7-9053-473a7d090ac8",{"_40":1167,"_45":1169,"_70":1151,"_41":1182},{"_40":1167,"_47":1170,"_32":1172,"_53":1173,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":1176,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":1171},{},1751449094.026908,{"_55":56,"_57":1174},[1175],"Totally understandable — and I’m glad your **replacement module works** now! 🎉\n\nAs for the root cause — since it’s now in a *non-functional state* with USB not detected, let me summarize the **most likely suspects**, even if not definitively proven:\n\n---\n\n## 🧩 Top Possible Root Causes\n\n### 1. 🧠 **Micronucleus Bootloader Glitch or Corruption**\n- A failed upload or power glitch during programming can leave it in a non-bootable state.\n- V-USB is software-based and *very timing-sensitive* — even a weird electrical transient during USB enumeration can crash the bootloader silently.\n\n### 2. ⚡ **Unexpected Pull or Noise on PB3/PB4**\n- Even though you didn’t connect anything *intentionally* to PB3/PB4, if they were **near other signals**, subject to **capacitive coupling**, or touched during install (e.g., a grounded screw pad or trace), it may have altered USB behavior.\n- Static discharge during mounting can also spike the I/O rails.\n\n### 3. 🔋 **Power Issue During Bootloader Window**\n- If the shared 5 V rail (USB + keyboard 5 V) sagged even slightly during USB enumeration, the ATtiny85 might brown out before bootloader response.\n- This could result in \"USB silence\" and no device detection.\n\n---\n\n## 🔍 How to Check the Dead Module (If Curious)\n\nIf you want to revive or diagnose the dead module later:\n\n### ✅ Use an ISP Programmer (e.g. USBasp or Arduino as ISP)\n\n1. Hook up MOSI, MISO, SCK, RESET, VCC, GND\n2. Use `avrdude` or Arduino IDE (set Tools → Programmer → USBasp)\n3. Try:\n```bash\navrdude -p t85 -c usbasp\n```\n4. If detected:\n   - You can reflash the bootloader\n   - Or load your sketch directly (without USB)\n\nThis proves the chip isn't dead, just USB boot is broken.\n\n---\n\n### 🩹 For the Future\n\nIf you want to avoid this happening again:\n- Add **1k pull-ups** on PB3 and PB4 during testing (optional)\n- Avoid touching USB lines or power while the board is being plugged in\n- When mounted, leave USB unconnected unless actively reprogramming\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Glad You're Unblocked Now!\n\nYou’ve done everything right — embedded development sometimes tosses a mystery or two your way. But now you’ve got:\n- A working keyboard mod\n- A cleanly mounted, flashable Digispark\n- And a good spare you can revive later if needed 😉\n\nLet me know if you want help reviving the old one later, or converting to ISP-only workflow!",{"_158":1177,"_164":12,"_122":1179,"_124":1180,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":1151,"_92":1181,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":1178},[163],[],[],"958d2aac79728033-PRG",[1183],"8054378b-ac16-40d2-a9c7-ff7c5c3416f8",{"_40":1183,"_45":1185,"_70":1167,"_41":1198},{"_40":1183,"_47":1186,"_32":1188,"_53":1189,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":1192,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":1187},{},1751449149.884,{"_55":56,"_57":1190},[1191],"but now pls, that setting speed probably dont work, I didnt had here delay, will this work??\n\n  // SET shortest delay, fastest rate\r\n  sendByte(0xF3);\r\n  _delay_ms(10);\r\n  sendByte(0x1F);",{"_84":1193,"_86":1194,"_88":1195,"_92":1197,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":1196},[],"958d2ca82a4b8033-PRG",[1199],"da9fcdab-6eee-49a8-947b-c0ca683058ef",{"_40":1199,"_45":1201,"_70":1183,"_41":1214},{"_40":1199,"_47":1202,"_32":1204,"_53":1205,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":1208,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":1203},{},1751449151.199474,{"_55":56,"_57":1206},[1207],"You're right to question it — let's walk through what that sequence **actually does** and whether the delay and structure are correct.\n\n---\n\n## 🧠 What You're Doing Here\n\nYou're sending a PS/2 command to the keyboard to set the **repeat rate and delay**, using command `0xF3`.\n\n### ✅ PS/2 Spec Reference for `0xF3`:\n- `0xF3` = **Set Typematic Rate/Delay**\n- Followed by a 1-byte parameter (bitfield)\n\nIn your case:\n\n```cpp\nsendByte(0xF3);     // Tell the keyboard: \"I'm about to set repeat rate\"\n_delay_ms(10);      // Give it time (some keyboards may need it)\nsendByte(0x1F);     // Set rate/delay value\n```\n\n---\n\n## ⏱️ How to Interpret the `0x1F` Value\n\nThis value is an **encoded delay + rate**, as per IBM PS/2 spec:\n\n| Bits     | Meaning             |\n|----------|---------------------|\n| 7–6      | Delay before repeat |\n| 5–0      | Repeat rate         |\n\n### For `0x1F` (binary `0001 1111`):\n\n- Bits `7-6` = `00` → **250 ms delay**\n- Bits `5-0` = `0x1F` = 31 → **approx. 30.2 Hz repeat rate**\n\nSo you're asking the keyboard to:\n- Wait 250 ms after key down\n- Then start repeating at 30.2 Hz (fastest or close to fastest)\n\n---\n\n## 🧪 But Will This Work?\n\n### ✅ Yes — *IF the keyboard accepts `0xF3`*\nMost real PS/2 keyboards **do**, but some hybrid ones:\n- Ignore host commands\n- Or require full command handshake (send → expect `0xFA` ACK → then send param)\n\n---\n\n## 🛠️ Recommended Robust Version\n\nHere’s a more proper implementation that:\n- Sends `0xF3`\n- Waits for keyboard to ACK (`0xFA`)\n- Then sends parameter\n- Waits again\n\n```cpp\nsendByte(0xF3);     // Set Typematic Rate/Delay\n_delay_ms(10);      // Wait for ACK (ideally: read and confirm 0xFA)\n\nsendByte(0x1F);     // Fastest rate, 250ms delay\n_delay_ms(10);      // Wait for ACK (again ideally read 0xFA)\n```\n\n> 🔎 If you're not reading replies, at least give a small delay (~10–20ms) to be sure the keyboard has time to handle the first command before sending the second.\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Summary\n\n- Your command **sequence is valid** per PS/2 spec\n- Adding `_delay_ms(10)` is usually **enough** to make it work\n- But **reading `0xFA` ACKs** would be ideal for robust behavior\n- `0x1F` is a good choice for **fastest repeat rate** with standard delay\n\n---\n\nWould you like to add **input pin reading** so you can wait for `0xFA` after each command? It’s easy and would make your Digispark a fully \"acknowledging\" host.",{"_158":1209,"_164":12,"_122":1211,"_124":1212,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":1183,"_92":1213,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":1210},[163],[],[],"958d2bb79e368033-PRG",[1215],"2ab42609-b839-4a41-b6f8-7bf089494365",{"_40":1215,"_45":1217,"_70":1199,"_41":1230},{"_40":1215,"_47":1218,"_32":1220,"_53":1221,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":1224,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":1219},{},1751449700.066,{"_55":56,"_57":1222},[1223],"can you pls review again $F3 parameters? I sent $1F but repeat is slow",{"_84":1225,"_86":1226,"_88":1227,"_92":1229,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":1228},[],"958d3a171d4e8033-PRG",[1231],"a57732ec-ae88-4802-8eda-db6e057b386d",{"_40":1231,"_45":1233,"_70":1215,"_41":1246},{"_40":1231,"_47":1234,"_32":1236,"_53":1237,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":1240,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":1235},{},1751449701.22993,{"_55":56,"_57":1238},[1239],"Yes, let's do a precise breakdown — you're absolutely right to question it. The **`0xF3` (Set Typematic Rate/Delay)** command uses a very compact bitfield format, and it can be a bit misleading.\n\n---\n\n## 🔍 PS/2 `0xF3` Format: Set Typematic Rate and Delay\n\nAfter sending `0xF3`, you must send **1 data byte** with this format:\n\n```\n  7   6   5 4 3 2 1 0\n+---+---+-------------+\n| D | D |   R R R R R |\n+---+---+-------------+\n```\n\n### Bits:\n\n- **Bits 7–6 (`D`)** = Delay\n  - `00` → 250 ms\n  - `01` → 500 ms\n  - `10` → 750 ms\n  - `11` → 1000 ms\n- **Bits 5–0 (`RRRRRR`)** = Repeat rate divisor (lower = faster)\n\n| `RRRRRR` Value | Repeat Rate   |\n|----------------|----------------|\n| `000000` = 0x00 | 30.0 Hz (fastest) |\n| `000001` = 0x01 | 26.7 Hz          |\n| ...            | ...              |\n| `111111` = 0x3F | 2.0 Hz (slowest) |\n\n> The formula:  \n> **Repeat Rate = 30.0 / (1 + RRRRRR)**\n\n---\n\n## 🧠 So What Does `0x1F` Actually Mean?\n\nLet's decode:\n\n- `0x1F` = `0001 1111`  \n- Bits 7–6 = `00` → **250 ms delay** ✅\n- Bits 5–0 = `0b011111` = `0x1F` = **repeat rate index = 31**\n\nPlug into the formula:\n```\nRepeat rate = 30.0 / (1 + 31) = 30 / 32 = **0.9375 Hz**\n```\n\n> 🔥 So despite choosing `0x1F`, you're actually getting a **slow repeat rate**, almost **1 repeat per second** — that’s why it feels sluggish!\n\n---\n\n## ✅ Solution: Use `0x00` for Fastest Repeat\n\n```cpp\nsendByte(0xF3);\n_delay_ms(10);\nsendByte(0x00); // Fastest repeat, shortest delay (250 ms)\n```\n\n- Bits 7–6 = `00` → 250ms delay\n- Bits 5–0 = `000000` → 30 Hz repeat rate (fastest)\n\n---\n\n## 💡 Tip: Example Values\n\n| Byte | Delay | Repeat Rate |\n|------|-------|-------------|\n| `0x00` | 250 ms | **30 Hz** (fastest) |\n| `0x20` | 500 ms | 30 Hz |\n| `0x3F` | 1000 ms | **2 Hz** (slowest) |\n\n---\n\n### ✅ Summary\n\n- You sent `0x1F` thinking it was fastest — but it gives **~0.94 Hz**\n- To get **fast repeat**, use `0x00` after `0xF3`\n- The formula is inverse — **higher value = slower rate**\n\nLet me know if you want a ready-made table or logic to calculate any delay/rate combo.",{"_158":1241,"_164":12,"_122":1243,"_124":1244,"_97":-5,"_126":127,"_128":127,"_129":1215,"_92":1245,"_95":96,"_67":24},{"_27":160,"_161":1242},[163],[],[],"958d3960ea9a8033-PRG",[1247],"f9963448-edd9-4a2c-aa1b-cb1638f4a8b0",{"_40":1247,"_45":1249,"_70":1231,"_41":1262},{"_40":1247,"_47":1250,"_32":1252,"_53":1253,"_60":61,"_63":82,"_51":1256,"_68":69},{"_49":76,"_51":1251},{},1751507299.966,{"_55":56,"_57":1254},[1255],"tnx Lyra, just FYI, everything works well now, perfect :)",{"_84":1257,"_86":1258,"_88":1259,"_92":1261,"_94":-5,"_95":96,"_97":-5,"_67":24},[],[],{"_90":1260},[],"9592b858aa33b190-LHR",[1263],"0374bc85-88a3-4ead-a8de-9cd7624bd6e0",{"_40":1263,"_45":1265,"_70":1247,"_41":1278},{"_40":1263,"_47":1266,"_32":1268,"_53":1269,"_60":61,"_62":12,"_63":82,"_51":1272,"_68":69},{"_49":103,"_51":1267},{},1751507301.511709,{"_55":56,"_57":1270},[1271],"That’s awesome to hear, Petr! 🎉 I’m really glad everything is working perfectly now — from the keyboard mod to the timing tweak. 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